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CAMPING IN THE
WESTERN MOUNTAINS
3. Equipment for
Larger Parties,
Pack Trips, and Fixed Camps
Knapsack parties of more than two persons, particularly if out for less than
two weeks, can afford to carry a few extra gadgets and a larger variety of food
distributed among the packs. Couples traveling on foot with one burro will make
better progress the closer they stick to the minimum lists of equipment and
food; the less the little beast has to carry, the faster he goes, and he doesn’t
go very fast at the best. A burro will carry between 75 and 100 pounds, a horse
not more than 150 pounds, a mule up to 175 pounds. These are top weights for
rough mountain trails and should never be exceeded. Horses and mules are much
faster than the average burro, but they require better feed, must be kept shod,
and are more likely to stray during the night. Equestrian parties, with a packer
and cook and unlimited funds for the rental of stock, can carry most anything,
short of a piano, that fancy suggests. However, unless you get a great deal of
pleasure out of paying for the privilege of exercising someone else’s stock, it
is wise to confine yourself to essentials. The more gear you carry, the more
time you will have to spend taking care of it, and the more your camp will look
like a rummage sale of second-hand sporting goods. Spot packing, that is, having
a packer bring in your outfit to a fixed camp, is becoming very popular,
especially with those who go to the mountains primarily to rest and fish, or
just fish, or just rest. Such a party should be equipped with knapsacks, or
should retain a burro for use on side trips.
The following lists are cumulative additions to the basic supplies described
in the preceding chapters; each large outfit should include all the supplies of
the preceding ones. Packers have only harsh words for them, but no matter how
well mounted the party, there should be at least one knapsack to every two or
three persons. Clothing and personal gear can be stowed in them and packed on
the animal while traveling, and they are useful on side trips and in
emergencies.
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT, TWO TO FOUR PEOPLE, ONE PACK ANIMAL:
axe
shovel
pail
grill
friction tape
file
whetstone
more candles
more rope
twine
spool of light copper wire
more leather laces
pliers
nails
scale
two awning pulleys
larger cook kit
dish towel
scouring cake
snake kit
toilet paper
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT, TWO TO FOUR PACK ANIMALS OR SMALL FIXED CAMP:
air mattresses, small pillows
folding reflector oven
pancake turner
cooking spoon
claw hammer
butcher knife
larger first aid kit
chlorinated lime
repair kit for fishing tackle
creels, waders, nets, etc.
repair kit for harness
shoe repair kit and last
lantern
dunnage bags
pocket roll for personal gear
additional toilet articles
aluminum cocktail shaker with strainer (for dried milk)
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT, EQUESTRIANS:
US cavalry or pommel slicker
light cotton or silk drawers
windproof jacket
high-heeled boots
chaps in mesquite or chaparral
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT, LARGE PARTIES AND LARGE FIXED CAMPS:
small crosscut saw
Dutch oven
knock-down stove
folding cooler or meat safe
hanging shelves
pressure cooker
large cook kit
enameled dishes
wash basin
dish pan
steel table knives
larger harness kit
folding chairs
large tent or tents
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT, IDIOSYNCRASIES:
field glasses
geologist’s pick
mineral kit
flower press and mounts
camera
film
filters, etc.
flash bulbs
butterfly net
entomology kit
climbing rope
pitons
ice axe
musical instruments
guns, hunting knife, bullets, shells
fly-tying outfit
water colors, brushes, paper
paper, pencils, and whisky for novelists
I suppose this could go on indefinitely. I remember a packer’s enthusiastic
description of a party of millionaires. “Boy, they were swell, there was a case
of whiskey and an iron bed to every man.” Up in the Cascades, I once ran into
the party of a famous lady novelist who has quite a reputation for going native.
There were four tourists in the outfit, four packers, a “guide,” a cook, two
helpers, twelve saddle horses, four extra horses, and fifteen or more pack
animals, besides a lost burro who had joined the party en route. They were out
for ten days. If you can afford it, it may be a lot of fun to imitate Genghis
Khan, but it is hardly “roughing it.”
SHOVEL AND AXE. All parties with one or more pack animals are required by law
to carry an axe, a shovel, and a pail. Where weight is the principal
consideration, these can be reduced to minimum legal size. The mail-order houses
and most large auto supply stores carry such sets. The axe has a 1¼- or 1½-pound head and a 26-inch handle, the shovel measures about 36 inches over
all
and has a blade 8 by 10 inches and a D grip on the handle. If the shovel has a
long drop-forged shank and a solid hickory handle, it is good enough. The axe,
however, is seldom made of good steel and should be viewed with suspicion. It
will do when everything must be carried by one burro; otherwise it pays to get
the best you can afford.
The axe head should weigh at least 3 pounds and the handle should be 36 inches
long, straight grained, free from knots, and in perfect line with the head.
Single-bit axes are best, the poll is useful as a hammer and mallet. A
double-bladed axe is dangerous, particularly if someone stumbles over it when it
is stuck in the chopping log. The blade should be hollowed at the sides and have
a gently sloping bevel. On a new axe, the bevel is usually too abrupt , have it
ground down by someone who knows how. Never use an axe as a wedge, chop wood with
it which lies flat on the ground or drive it into the earth. In cold weather the
blade should be warmed between the hands before using or it will chip. Both axe
and shovel should have sheaths of leather or heavy canvas. An axe to every four
and a shovel to every six people is a good ratio.
PAIL. A stout 10-quart galvanized bucket, with lapped seams, that can be put
on the fire, is best. Tin pails dent easily and melt at the seams. Canvas pails
cannot be put on the fire, collapse without warning, and acquire an offensive
odor. Large parties will require several pails for dishwashing, laundry,
drinking water, etc. Small outfits can get along with one if it is kept very
clean. Stockmen’s supply houses sell a harness for tying the pail to the top of
a pack.
GRILL. It is possible to cook on a narrow rock fireplace without a grill, but
it is a tedious process and requires a lot of care. Even knapsackers should
carry a wire grill if possible. A grill the size of a Maine-type knapsack,
carried inside the pack, but against the surface, will give rigidity and balance
to the load. An envelope of canvas or blue denim should house the grill if it is
to be carried in the pack, or it will cover everything with soot. The wire
should be fairly heavy, with a heavier frame and midrib, or the grill will sag
on the fire. An oblong aluminum tray, if sufficiently heavy, may be used
instead; it keeps the pots free from soot, but it dents easily and the dents
make little air pockets under the pots which retard cooking. Broken auto spring
blades may be used as fire irons.
FRICTION TAPE. Friction tape is cheaper than waterproof adhesive for binding
and mending. It should be stuck to both sides of the hole or tear in tents,
canvas, and sleeping bag covers, and then sewed down with a small needle and
light thread. The needle holes can be closed by rubbing some of the gum back into
them. Friction tapes are not as uniform as they might look. The cheap grades are
made of poor cloth that tears and frays easily, and the adhesive substance has
little stickum to it.
FILE. To keep the axe sharp you will need a 6-inch mill-cut file and a round
or oval axe stone of carborundum. Don’t try to sharpen a saw if you don’t know
how.
PLIERS. A good pair of side-cutting pliers will find all sorts of uses.
NAILS. Carry a small assortment of nails, tacks, and fencing staples, but
don’t drive them into living trees. You will probably find plenty already driven
in wherever you camp. Mirrors, etc., should be tied to trees with string.
SCALE. Successful animal packing depends on a perfectly balanced load. Your
packer should supply you with a 75-pound spring scale with a hook at one end
and a ring at the other. Insist on it if you rent stock, include it if you
furnish your own equipment.
PULLEYS. Bears cannot be hunted in the Sierra Nevada and they are a menace to
an unwatched camp. In Yosemite, where the administration does not strictly
enforce the rules against feeding them [no longer true], they must be constantly guarded against.
In Sequoia, tourists caught feeding them are arrested, and marauding bears are
shot with a load of rock salt or, if incurable, killed. Other regions in
California, particularly Zumwalt Meadows and the Middle Fork of the Kings, are
bad bear country. Glacier and Yellowstone Parks are very bad; since they have
been made a park, the Tetons are getting worse yearly. Nothing can do more
damage than an inquisitive bear, and the two pulleys, which should fit a pack
rope and have hooks at each end, are to haul food or a cache out of their reach.
COOK KITS. Three or even four people can get along with the knapsack cook kit
previously described if extra dishes, cups, and cutlery are added. Parties of
four or more will find the ones sold for auto camping satisfactory. Standard
four-party sets include: 1 8-cup coffee pot, 1 2½-quart pot, 1 4½-quart
pot, 1 7-quart pot, 1 frying pan, 4 dishes, 4 cups, salt and pepper shakers, all
of aluminum, four sets of eating utensils, usually of nickeled ware. The pots
should all have flat covers with rings rather than knobs, and bales
[i.e., semicircle wire handles] with flat
ears or clamp and socket handles. The whole kit is housed in the largest pot,
which is covered with the frying pan. Six-party sets usually only add dishes and
utensils. The cups should be replaced with enamel and the utensils with silver
plate. Parties of six should have an extra sheet-iron skillet with folding
handle of the proper size to fit on the bottom. The kit should have a canvas or
denim case and be packed in the galvanized bucket, where it will be protected
from dents.
SNAKE KIT. Rattlesnakes are seldom found above 7000 feet; unless you plan to
stay above that elevation, a snakebite kit should always be carried. One is
described in the chapter on first aid.
TOILET PAPER. Many leaves and herbs are poisonous or irritating, take along a
roll of toilet paper on all but three-week knapsack trips. In the latter case
you may either carry an extra few ounces or take a chance.
DISH TOWELS. Sixteen-inch linen toweling costs from 15 to 20 cents a yard.
Dish towels become incurably dirty in camp, so it is wise to carry two yards for
a long trip.
AIR MATTRESSES. Pneumatic beds are made of heavy rubberized cloth; the
heavier the cloth and the thicker the coating of gum rubber, the more durable,
but the heavier the bed. They are rather fragile things and should be handled
with care. Enough air to hold apart the gum lining should always be left in them
when deflated, they should be kept out of the sun and away from gasoline, oil,
and grease, and cleaned only with cold water and a brush, and carried on the
inside of the bed roll where they will be protected from sawing pack ropes.
Properly constructed ready-made sleeping bags have a pocket for an air mattress.
In homemade ones they should be “worn” between the lining and the bag or they
will crawl away in the night. Inflate the bag with your mouth, not a pump; if
too full it will be very uncomfortable. Pneumatic pillows are very uncomfortable
and kapok ones only slightly less so; a down pillow about 14 by 12 inches is far
better. Some old-timers carry a rectangular bag of ticking which they fill with
grass and leaves for a mattress; this is liable to be bumpy and bunchy and very
damp unless filled with dry straw. It is not suitable for western conditions,
where long grass is common only in damp meadows and where most trees have
needles.
REFLECTOR OVENS. Most outfitters sell what in California are called “Sierra
ovens.” Or two can be made from a 10-gallon rectangular oil can cut diagonally
in half, with a shelf of heavy wires inserted in holes in the sides and
bisecting the 45-degree angle in the rear. (The shelf, not the wires, bisects
the angle.) Wire feet should be added to the rear to hold the contrivance up,
with the shelf horizontal. The inner surface should be kept clean and bright, to
reflect the maximum of heat.
FIRST AID KIT. More bandages, one to a person, a 2-ounce package of absorbent
cotton, 2 ounces of pure grain alcohol, more adhesive tape, bandage strips,
surgical gauze, cotton, a soft rubber catheter (which is what doctors use for a
tourniquet), a pair of tweezers, and more aspirin and laxative should be added
as the party is increased. Large parties had best carry one of the smaller
household first aid boxes, which come packed in a tin case and with a book of
directions. All druggists sell them.
CHLORINATED LIME. There are few more powerful antiseptics and deodorants than
chlorinated lime. A piece the size of an aspirin tablet will purify a pail of
doubtful water in a short time, and a can should be kept at the latrine. It
absorbs moisture and should be kept tightly closed.
FISHING KIT. The size of the repair kit depends entirely on how much you want
to carry and how much you know about repairing tackle. Two spare tips, 6 spare
guides, a card of winding silk, a pair of small scissors, tweezers, and little
bottles of varnish, glue, and cement will see you through most any accident.
Sporting goods stores sell such kits already assembled.
HARNESS REPAIRS. Examine your harness carefully before you start, if any of
it is dry and brittle, or defective, or ill fitting, insist that your packer
replace it. On a long trip take along an extra cinch strap and some split rivets
(not machine rivets). Large outfits should carry an assortment of leather, an
awl and thread, a punch and a hand riveter.
SHOE REPAIR KIT. A serviceable last can be made from a piece of light sheet
iron, cut the shape of the sole of the foot but slightly smaller and held firm
with a billet of wood. If the feet of the party vary widely in size you may have
to take two lasts. Any machine shop will cut one for you. The kit should
include a box of sole nails, a box of heel nails, and a pair of soles, and a
pair of rubber or leather heels to every three persons.
LANTERN. Gasoline and kerosene are dangerous and messy to carry, acetylene
lanterns seems to have disappeared from the market; electric lanterns which burn
four flashlight cells or the larger ones which burn one or two dry cells are
best. Carry extra batteries.
DUNNAGE BAG. Clothing should never be carried loose in a pack box, but packed
in a waterproof dunnage bag to protect it from dust and rain. A square of denim
sewed with pockets is handy for toilet articles and other personalia; it can be
rolled up when traveling and hung to a tree in camp.
EQUESTRIAN CLOTHING. A poncho is fine for hiking, but poor for horseback. It
doesn’t fit, pulls loose at the back, hikes up over the knees and blows in the
wind and scares the horse. Get a cavalry slicker, which has a double thickness
over the shoulders, a double row of buttons, and a double flap, buttons to
secure it separately to each leg, straps at the wrist and neck, an extra piece
in the split of the rear to cover the saddle, and which
reaches almost to the ankles.
They are usually cut full like a nightshirt and are neater, more comfortable and
windproof if belted. The slicker should be carried on the saddle.
After several days spent in the saddle, the insides of the legs are liable to
become severely chafed if not protected from the rough overalls. Dude cow
punchers wear long silk drawers. Silk is best, but light cotton will do. They
should be ankle length, preshrunk, and fit well in the waist and crotch.
Winds can become very penetrating when you have to sit upright and
comparatively still in the saddle. Most punchers wear jackets of overall cloth,
which can be waterproofed like a tent. Light-weight melton cloth is also good.
It can be waterproofed in a solution of carbon tetrachloride and anhydrous
lanolin. Leather jackets should be oiled before starting.
High-heeled “cowboy boots” are certainly more comfortable and safer for
riding, if the toes are not too pointed, but it is impossible to walk any
distance in them. Wear them if it makes you feel indigenous, but take along a
pair of hiking boots. Never wear “riding boots” on the trail. They are fine
for parks only.
Chaps are worn to protect the legs when chasing cows through dense brush or
chaparral. You have no business going such places with a rented horse, and you
are crazy if you treat your own that way. Borrow a pair for snapshots. In some
forests in the Southwest, where the trails are poor and chaparral is thick and
thorny, they are essential. Don’t make the mistake of belittling the outfit of
the American cowpuncher, it is the most practical herdsman’s costume in the
world.
CROSSCUT SAW. There are two kinds of crosscut saws, those used to cut across
boards and those used for logs. It is the second kind that you want. The best
saws have a tapered gauge, in the 3½- or 4-foot size (the easiest to pack),
usually 16 gauge at the teeth, 17 at the point, and 18 at the handle. A saw with
four perforated lance teeth to one raker cuts faster and more smoothly. (A
one-man saw should have a little supplementary handle.) It is used to saw
kindling lengths from logs, which are then split with the axe. Keep it off the
ground and out of knots, and don’t let it get too hot. Learn how to use it and
be sure it is set properly and sharp before starting. Only a very large party
needs a saw.
DUTCH OVEN. Biscuits, fish, beans, and a lot of other things can be baked in
a Dutch oven. The best type for camp use is low, almost cylindrical in shape,
has little legs, and a flat lid which fits over the edge of the pot. Lids which
fit inside the lip of the pot allow ashes to get into the food, round-topped
lids won’t hold coals. You should make a wire pot hook with a 3-foot handle to
manipulate the oven.
FOLDING STOVE. A portable stove is far from a necessity, but hired camp cooks
like them, and they do simplify things for a very large party. Most packers will
provide them, or they can be purchased from the large outfitters. The stove
should be well braced and fold compactly, the lids should have handles, the door
should fit well and have a draft, the pipe should be in 2-foot telescopic
sections and be provided with a damper.
PRESSURE COOKER. Better than a Dutch oven, and the only thing that will cook
beans satisfactorily above 5000 feet, is a pressure cooker. Above
11,000 feet it is impossible to cook even rice and macaroni thoroughly.
Therefore the pressure cooker is ideal for high mountain travel if it can be
carried. The pressure keeps the taste from spreading from one food to another
and an entire meal may be cooked at once. They come in three or four sizes,
select the one best suited to your party. Have the safety valve set down for
high altitudes, or the thing will explode.
COOLER. Venison, fresh meat, bacon, ham, butter, etc., may be kept in a
collapsible box, with sides of screening, and shelves and top and bottom of
light boards. This cooler should be kept covered with damp burlap or canvas, and
hung on a single heavy wire, in the shade, and out of the reach of bears. Be
sure that it hangs free of trees and branches, or rats, mice, and other pests
will get at it.
Shelves may be hung on four wires, two at each end.
The most popular tent with auto campers is the marquee or umbrella. This is
not an ideal tent for the mountains, but there are thousands of them on the
market and intense competition has resulted in good workmanship in the more
expensive models. The larger ones will sleep four people. Get the kind that can
be pitched on a single pole cut from a sapling. The ones with four folding poles
in the corners are better for auto camping, but if the rather complicated frame
breaks, it is very difficult to pitch the tent with makeshift poles. Large
outfitters sell telescoping steel poles. If you can bend them on your knee they
are no good. They attract lightning and are therefore undesirable at high
altitudes.
People with hobbies, bird study, botany, mountaineering, mineralogy, etc.,
have ideas of their own about what they want to take. However, even they might
welcome a few suggestions. Field glasses are easier to focus and therefore
better than binoculars for bird study and hunting, for star gazing they should
have as wide an object lens as possible, their power is of much less importance.
[Rock collectors may be disappointed by the Sierras, which are
almost entirely of granite. There are good metamorphic rocks around Tuolumne
Meadows in Yosemite, and near Mineral King in Sequoia. Although every “scene”
in the Sierras has been exhaustively snapshot, wild life and botanical
photography has not been common. Night pictures of animals are easy to take, or
rather have the animal take, and such a collection from this region would be
unusual.] [The passage within brackets is crossed out in the
MS.] It is necessary to secure permission from the administration before
botanical or entomological specimens may be collected in the National Parks.
Unless you wish to turn your specimens over to the Park, you are not likely to
get this permission. The National Forests are the best place for collectors.
Leave good musical instruments at home, violins, violas, guitars, mandolins,
etc., are sure to crack, and brasses will get nicked or dented. Flutes,
recorders, harmonicas, and the so-called automatic harps are about the only
things that can be carried safely. Oil paints are a nuisance to pack, but if you
have to have them I suppose you will carry them. Horse furniture is described in
the chapter on horses and packing.
Chapter 3 of Kenneth Rexroth’s
Camping in the Western Mountains (unpublished manuscript, ca. 1939).
Copyright 2003. Reproduced by permission of the
Kenneth Rexroth Trust.
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